The Coberni dress that Bella Hadid wore at Paris Fashion Week

written by Samantha Tse, CNNParis France

Characterized by the good, the bad and the ugly, “Look of the week” IIt is a regular series dedicated to unpacking the most popular outfit of the past seven days.

It’s the buzziest moment of Paris Fashion Week yet. On Friday evening, Bella Hadid wrapped up French label Coperney’s Spring-Summer 2023 show with a dress spray-painted on it in front of a live audience.

The supermodel walked the runway in nothing but nude underwear before Manel Torres – creator of the patented spray technology, Fabrican – and two scientists applied a misty liquid that, almost instantly, turned into a wearable.

For nearly 10 minutes, guests watched in awe as Torres and his team realized the Cooperney design in real time. To finish off the dress, the label’s head designer, Charlotte Raymond, walked the stage and gently patted the neckline while still drying and cutting a dramatic slit at the leg.

The dress has no seams and no hem. From afar, the fabric looked like a soft t-shirt that seemed to move easily with the t-shirt. But when Hadid completed a lap around the runway, one could see a nice texture reminiscent of water drops.

Bella Hadid at the Coberni Spring/Summer 2023 fashion show. attributed to him: Julien De Rosa/AFP/Getty Images

“You can wear this dress and keep it like a dress and put it on a hanger. But if you don’t want it anymore, you can put the dress back in the liquid and you can immediately spray it again,” and co-founder, Sebastian Meyer, told CNN at the brand’s operator in Paris before the show. .

Innovative materials have been in development since the early 2000s. The short fibers are bonded with natural and synthetic polymers and then mixed with liquid solvents that evaporate immediately once the aerosol hits skin or other surfaces, according to a press release from the British company behind the technology. The texture of the cloth can also be processed according to the type of fiber and the binding agent used.

The dress was created in just 10 minutes using Sprinkle Fabrican technology.

The dress was created in just 10 minutes using Sprinkle Fabrican technology. attributed to him: Julien De Rosa/AFP/Getty Images

While the dress won’t be for sale, Mayer said it’s important to push the boundaries of technology and design, creating a moment that may go down in fashion history. The audience seemed moved – including Kylie Jenner, Jen Damas and Alexa Chung, who all cheered loudly – as the finale footage quickly went viral.

“We’re not going to make money from this, but it’s more about celebrating innovation and having strong moments in fashion because we’re passionate about pushing fashion forward,” Cooperny CEO and co-founder Arno Vaillant said before the conference. turns out.

Coburn, founded in 2013, often inoculates fashion with art, science, technology, and crafts. Earlier this year, the brand made headlines with a hand-blown glass handbag that Doja Cat carried to the Grammys. The bag is named Swipe after the “swipe to unlock” feature on iPhones. On the catwalk this season, the Parisian brand has also introduced an 18-karat gold version of the bag that will be melted down after the show for use in other projects. Those who wish to purchase one of the gold bags – designed by artisan Gabriele Feneri – can have it custom-made.

For some fashion-watchers, the brand’s Friday finale evoked the iconic Alexander McQueen Spring 1999 show where model Shalom Harlow, dressed in an oversized white dress, was painted by two robots while spinning on a turntable. Both Mayer and Vaillant insisted, however, that it was not a tribute to McQueen.
Meyer, who called himself “Geek,” said he discovered Fabrican while surfing the Internet and began working with Torres six months before the group debuted. Although the pioneering technology was initially developed for the fashion industry, it has potential applications in other sectors such as healthcare, where it has been used to produce face masks, protective clothing, molds and bandages.
The dress can revert to liquid and can be re-sprayed over and over again.

The dress can revert to liquid and can be re-sprayed over and over. attributed to him: Julien de Rosa/AFP/Getty Images

Elsewhere in Coberni’s new spring-summer collection, 3D floral prints appeared on vinyl cut-outs attached to fitted jackets. With bra cups reinterpreted as shoulder pads, the high-tech outfits were paired with high-waisted cropped shorts and bodycon dresses—as Kylie Jenner wore them on the show.

“We made this print by shooting a video of a flower blooming,” Meyer explained. “Then we took some screenshots of the video, which was put through[a piece]of typography creation software. It’s very technical and Coperny doesn’t usually do florals because it’s too feminine to us, but I like the contrast of a futuristic texture with the romance of flowers. It’s modern romance.”

The collection also included a nod to actress Fiona Johnson’s red dress in The Matrix, as well as a series of boxy-shouldered jackets that referenced the silhouettes of characters in the online game Roblox.

“Sebastian (Meyer)’s main inspiration is innovation, whether it’s technology or the digital realm,” Vaillant said of Coperny’s co-founder. “So he always has this sign.”

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